Lush mountainous valley stretching to the horizon with fluffy clouds

Outside Medellín: Los Saltos Ecoparque

Since arriving in Colombia, I’ve been able to go on several day-trips outside the city. Each one has been unique and with different tour leaders. One thing they have had in common is the beauty of the steep hills and valleys of the Antioquia region of Colombia.

The first trip I took was with some friends from Selina who are starting a tour company called My Favorite Paisa. Paisa (pie-sah) is a term used in Medellín (or maybe throughout Colombia?) that basically means “local.” My Favorite Paisa is looking to create a tour company that feels more like taking a day trip with friends than being part of a tour group, and their aim is to go to less touristy places that you may not get to otherwise.

I joined them on their first official outing, and the day was really special. Because they’re just getting going, they are still working with their own personal transportation as opposed to having an official tour bus or van so we split into a couple of vehicles, one driven by Daniel, one of the co-owners of the company who grew up in Medellín, and the other driven by Daniel’s mother.

En route to our ultimate destination, we stopped in a small town called El Retiro, where we found a seat in the town square for some hot chocolate and pastries for breakfast. This is when I was first introduced to pandebonos and buñuelos that I wrote about in my last post. Our bellies full, we continued on to Salto del Buey to visit Los Saltos Ecoparque.

After an initial, unexpected obstacle that involved officials limiting park entry by those without reservations due to heavy rains that had impacted some of their infrastructure, we were allowed to enter the park with the understanding that we would not be allowed to do any of the activities nor use any of the amenities like the on-site café or restaurant. Fortunately, there was a communication breakdown between the front gate and the rest of the team at the park, and we were greeted warmly at the open air café and were happily sold tickets for the via ferrata.

In case you’re not familiar with via ferratas, the words basically translate to “iron way,” and you can find them along cliff sides all over the world as a secured way to climb routes that would otherwise be beyond the skill or safety tolerance of the average hiker. I’ve wanted to have one of these types of experiences since I first learned about them. Once again, Colombia delivered something I didn’t expect.

While waiting for our time to go down to the base of the waterfall for the beginning of our climb, we relaxed in the café overlooking the countryside and watched others enjoy one of the other activities available to park visitors, a zipline stretching more than 600 meters across a valley above a river 330 meters below. I’ve ridden a zipline before, and I’ve seen several others but nothing that approaches this one. It’s an impressive sight to see people flying across the expanse.

At our appointed time, we walked the steep trail down to the valley floor. Arriving at the bottom, we were all blown away by the power of the waterfall as it tumbled over the cliff. Swelled by a lot of recent rain, it pounded into the riverbed, blasting a heavy mist into a railed lookout point on a rocky promontory. The park officials told us about the positive physical benefits of the ion bath we would receive. Regardless of the source, our entire group was elated by the experience. It set just the mood to begin our ascent of the via ferrata. Even the one member of the group who admitted to having an issue with heights was emboldened and ready to climb.

Returning up the hill a short distance to the platform where the via ferrata begins, we waited around a few minutes wondering what the experience would be like. We had seen climbers on the cliff when we were mist bathing at the foot of the falls, but you couldn’t really see any of the climb from where we were waiting. Right on cue for our start time, a guide came from around a bend in the climb’s path to greet us, coming down the path we would take up. After a quick helmet and harness fitting and a few simple instructions, we were on our way.

It only took a few meters of movement along the 60-meter horizontal path along the cliff toward the waterfall to appreciate how unusual an experience it was going to be. After the first bit being on iron, ladder-like steps driven into the rock, we began making our way, one at a time, on a “bridge” that consisted of a couple of wood slats supported, I assume, by rebar anchored to the cliff. All I really know is that each one had some give in it, and there was only enough room for my two feet placed side by side. I had total faith in my climbing harness and safety line, though, so it was fantastic.

After making our way close to the side of the waterfall, we began ascending to the top, about 70 meters above. At this point we were back onto the rebar so the way felt much more steady. At no point in the climb did I ever feel at risk, but I was definitely awed by power of the water crashing by to my left and being able to witness it at such close quarters. Arriving at the top, we basked briefly in the afterglow of the experience, took a few photos, and made our way along the trail back to the café to collect Daniel’s mother and one member of the tour group who decided not to participate due to heart health concerns.

Although the café had no problem serving us coffee and beer, the restaurant wasn’t available for us so we headed back toward Medellín and stopped in La Ceja for a meal. Since this town is only 36 kilometers from Selina, I expected a quick trip back into Medellín. Wrong. Apparently many wealthy residents of Medellín have weekend homes in La Ceja, and they all head back into the city on Sunday evening. Two and a half hours later, we arrived back at the hostel.

My Favorite Paisa has some kinks to work out of their operations, but they are smart people who are intent on offering a different kind of tour experience in Medellín. The warmth and friendliness of the owners can’t be beaten, and I highly recommend you contact them via their Instagram page if you’d like to get off the beaten path in Antioquia.

P.S. I don’t get paid for the links in this post. They are there for your convenience.